Today we are enjoying our first full day on the cruise. After a buffet breakfast, we boarded a coach for a tour of Budapest city. The city is on both sides of the Danube - one side is Buda (hilly and green) the other side is Pest (flat). We made 3 stops during the tour.The first was the State Opera House, where we enjoyed a guided tour finishing with a mini concert from by one of the stars. Budapest's ornate opera house was
built at the end of the 19th century as the Royal Opera House. The opera house,
today known as the Hungarian State Opera House, was commissioned for the
commemoration of the Hungarian millennial in 1896. Miklós Ybl, Hungary's most
important architect at the time wanted the new opera house to rival those in Paris,
Vienna
and Dresden.
The grand building took nearly a decade to complete, with construction
beginning in 1875 and finishing in 1884. Budapest residents view it as one of
the most important historical buildings in the city. Neo-Renaissance in style,
the opera house also boasts a number of Baroque elements. The building has a
two-storeyed facade with a portico and a loggia above. On the balustrade above
the cornice, visitors will find sixteen statues of the great composers of the
world, including Beethoven, Mozart, Verdi, Bizet, Tchaikovsky, and Monteverdi.
But the most prominent statues are dedicated to two of Hungary's most popular
composers, who are shown seated in large niches on either side of the main
entrance. To the right of the entrance is Franz Liszt, a prolific
composer/pianist of the 19th century, and on the left is Ferenc Erkel, composer
of the Hungarian national anthem and first director of the opera. The statues
were created by Alajos Stróbl, a renowned Hungarian sculptor. The inside of the
Hungarian State Opera House is even more impressive. Frescoes and sculptures by
some of the country's foremost artists, including Károly Lotz, Bertalan
Székely, and Mór Than, grace the interior. Several kilograms of gold were used
to decorate the inside of the immense auditorium, which seats about 1200 patrons.
The room is decorated with a massive, three tons weighing chandelier. The
ceiling is adorned with a fresco depicting Greek gods. The foyer is just as
grand, with marble pillars, chandeliers and a ceiling painting of the nine
muses.
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| The State Opera House |
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| One of the ceilings in the Opera House |
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| more of the interior of the Opera House |
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| looking from the boxes down to the stage in the Opera House |
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| one of the floors - lots of tiny mosaic tiles |
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| another of the ornate ceilings in the Opera House |
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| some of the boxes in the Opera House |
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| this lady was one of the performers at the State Opera House |
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| more of the intricate wood work |
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| this guy was the performer in our mini concert |
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| Keith & Alison |
Our next stop was Heroes Square. Heroes' Square (or Hősök tere in
Hungarian) is one of the most-visited attractions in Budapest. Both Heroes'
Square and Városliget,
the adjoining city park, were created at the end of the 19th century to
commemorate the 1000th anniversary of the Magyar conquest of Hungary in 895.
Since many of the attractions weren't ready in time the festivities were held
one year late, in 1896. The square only received its current name in 1932,
three years after the completion of the Millennium Monument. Since its creation Heroes' Square has been the site
of numerous special events, including many Socialist holiday celebrations
staged during the country's Communist era. In 1989 it was the site of the
ceremonial reburial of Imre Nagy, leader of the uprising against the Soviet
occupation in 1956. At the center of Heroes' Square stands the Millennium Monument, designed in 1894 by Albert Schickedanz and completed
35 years later. The many statues were designed by György Zala. Soaring above
Heroes' Square is the Millennium Column, the focal point of the Millennium Monument. The column is topped with a statue of the archangel
Gabriel. Behind the column is a semicircular colonnade with statues of famous
men who made their mark on Hungarian history. Statues atop the colonnades
symbolize War, Peace, Work and Welfare, and Knowledge and Glory. Around the
base of the monument are a number of equestrian statues honouring the seven
chieftains of the Hungarian tribes who, led by Árpád, conquered the area now
known as Hungary. On the north side Heroes' Square is bordered by the Museum of Fine Arts, a museum with an exquisite collection of European
art, housed in a monumental classical building. The museum's gallery contains
works from old masters including Raphael, Titian, El Greco, Goya, Vermeer,
Rembrandt, Dürer and Rubens. The Museum of Fine Arts also has a collection of
sculptures as well as artifacts from the Middle Ages, the Antiquity and Egypt.
The building itself, an imposing neoclassical structure, is pretty impressive.
It was also designed by Albert Schickedanz with the help of Fülöp Herzog, his
associate, Műcsarnok. Opposite the Museum of Fine Arts stands the Műcsarnok
(Palace of Art), another Greek-like temple that nicely complements the design
of the Museum of Art. The Műcsarnok is an exhibition hall, mainly used to host
temporary exhibitions. The building is another creation of Albert Schickedanz,
also in cooperation with Fülöp Herzog. The Műcsarnok has a magnificent facade
with colossal gilded columns. The tympanum is decorated with a colourful mosaic
that shows St. Stephen as a patron of the arts.
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| Heroes Square |
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| Heroes Square |
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| Palace of Art |
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| Museum of Fine Arts |
Our
last stop on the tour was The Matthias Church is one of Budapest's most
important churches. The coronation of many of Hungary's kings occurred here and
the church is home to important tombs and ecclesiastical treasures. Officially
known as The Church of Our Lady (Nagyboldogasszony templom), Budapest's St.
Matthias Church, like many of the city's ecclesiastical structures, has a long
and complicated history. Matthias Church was built in 1255 century alongTrinity Square, in the heart of the Castle District, and was Buda's
first parish church. However, the original church structure changed many times
as it was constantly being renovated and refashioned in the popular
architectural style of each era. The church takes its more common name from
King Matthias, who ruled from 1458-90, well-known as a patron of the arts and
enlightenment and revered for reconstructing the Hungarian state after years
upon years of feudal anarchy. In 1541, when the Turks captured Buda, The Church
of Our Lady became a mosque. The ruling regime shipped precious ecclesiastical
treasures off to Bratislava and, appallingly, whitewashed over the ornate frescoes
that graced the walls of the church. Beautiful interior furnishings were
stripped out and discarded. The church was ravaged during the liberation of
Budapest from the Turks in 1686. The story goes that during the bombardment of
Budapest by a European alliance, a wall of the church collapsed, revealing a
sculpture of the Madonna to the praying Turks. Demoralized, they capitulated
the following day. The new occupants, the Jesuits, made attempts to restore the
church in the popular Baroque style of the era. Most consider the attempts a
failure. In the late 19th century, architect Frigyes Schulek is credited with
largely restoring St. Matthias Church to its original splendour. Schulek, who
also built the nearby Fisherman's Bastion, adhered to the original 13th century plans for the
church and also uncovered a number of original Gothic elements lost for
centuries. He added magnificent diamond patterned roof tiles and gargoyles,
which can still be admired today. The reconstruction was completed in 1896.
Very little remains of the original church, only the foundations, columns and
some walls date back to the 13th century. The smallest tower is known as the
Béla Tower and is named after the founder of the church, king Béla IV, under
whose reign the church was built. Its roof is decorated with colorful Maiolica
tiles. The main portal is decorated with bas-reliefs created by Lajos Lantai.
Above the portal is a large neo-Gothic rose window, an exact replica of the
original window. The tallest tower is the Matthias-tower, originally built in
the 15th century and named after the ruler of that era, King Matthias Corvinus.
His coat of arms, emblazoned with a raven (corvus in Latin), is shown inside the
church. The entrance (Mary Portal) is decorated with an exquisite Gothic
relief, painstakingly reconstructed by Frigyes from original pieces. The
interior of the Matthias Church is magnificently decorated with colourful
patterns and motifs that were found on original stone fragments. The frescoes
on the wall were created by the two most important historical painters of the
era, Bertalan Székely and Károly Lotz. They were also responsible for the
magnificent stained glass windows. One of the highlights inside is the main
altar, decorated with a neo-Gothic Triptych. The Loreto Chapel, beneath the
South Tower, holds the statue of the Baroque Madonna, a replica of the original
in the Italian village of Loreto. The most magnificent monument in the church
is the double sarcophagus of king Béla III and his wife Anne de Châtillon in
the Trinity Chapel. The 12th century king was originally buried in
Székesfehérvár; in 1848 archaeologists found his remains in the city's ruined
cathedral and transported it to the Matthias Church in 1860. The church also
has some relics and treasures, including the Matthias Chalice and a replica of
the Hungarian Royal Crown (the original is on display in the Parliament Building).










It
was only a short visit to Matthias Church, but the view over the river to the
Pest side of the city was spectacular. We boarded our coach for the short drive
back to the ship ready for our departure from Budapest just before 1.00pm. The
rest of the day has been spent relaxing as we cruise along the Danube – heading
for Vienna tomorrow.
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